how to install torsion bars on a mopar b body

This can be achieved by blasting the parts; then either refinish with Rust Preventative Magic or paint with Seymour’s Stainless Steel paint. Either clean them with a wire wheel on a bench grinder or blast them until they are completely clean. Upon reassembly of the steering linkage you can get the alignment somewhere in the ballpark so that you can get it to a good shop where you should have the car completely aligned before driving. Many inspection marks can be found on these cars’ front suspensions. On late-1970 cars an additional sleeve can be found on the bushing. The tri-castle nut goes on the upper ball joint and the six-count castle nut goes on the lower. Then press the bushing and shaft assembly into the arm. See a rehab and upgrade here.) This galvanized dust shield and original brake hose have been painted black. Just as important are the cosmetics of the components. SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this article on Facebook, in Forums, or with any Clubs you participate in. A combination distribution block and axle vent is threaded into the rear axle. Orange springs and all-new hardware complete the assembly. After it dries it can be shot with matte clear to make sure it is not sticky and does not easily rub off. The original power steering feel from the factory is slow and kind of soft in response. It can appear daunting to remove the shaft and bushing, restore both parts, and then install them. The master cylinder is cast in appearance and carries part numbers and date codes. You do not want to mar the newly finished surface. In reality, with some detailed guidelines, a good amount of mechanical experience, the help of a good machine shop, some designated garage time, and a reasonable amount of sweat, you can have a brand-new suspension that looks like it just came off the showroom floor. They are black phosphate, not natural metal. Finish the lower ball joint, spindle, and attaching hardware. Always inspect the spindle and make sure it is smooth and in usable condition. The rear suspension was a far more common arrangement, with the live axle (be it a Chrysler 81 ⁄4, 83 ⁄4, or Dana 60 housing) attached to a pair of leaf spring packs hanging below the rearward frame rails. Turning of the rotors is a must and hopefully you have enough metal left to use your originals. Completely strip and paint the K-member. Then the upper control arms were attached to the body and eventually aligned. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. You also can paint them with chrome paint, but the finish does not last as well as plating does. The basic function and design of the brake system did not change much over the years, but the appearance changed substantially among models and through the years 1966–1970. Jun 5, 2019 #1. pghjeeper Well-Known Member. That reduces the shine and makes it almost impossible to tell if the part is painted or not. They also offer leaf springs that have a long track record (quite literally) of significantly improving the road handling of Chrysler A-, B-, and E-Bodies, unlike a few coil over replacement kits that have garnered mixed results. Even a stock car equipped with a 4-barrel 383 B block can easily break the 100-mph mark, and the last thing you want is a loose and questionable suspension. Take inventory of any missing, damaged, and worn part that must be replaced and add them to your “parts needed” list. The process is the same with these individual units. So the original suspension on my recently acquired 1965 Satellite … Lubricate the front eye bushing and press it in. Do not blast the drum surface where the brake shoes contact the drum.

The left bar has two stripes, one about 71 ⁄2 inches and the other about 10 inches from the front of the bar. They are reproduced with a close appearance to the originals. Notice the lack of original part numbers on the cylinder. When both assemblies are completed install the clamps. Original arms were natural metal and NOS arms (shown) were finished in semi-gloss black. When you have it rebuilt you can choose different levels of final performance. Put duct tape on any surface that will touch the finished springs. It’s important to note that the lower ball–to-spindle nut should not be a tri-castle nut. For a correct restoration use rubber and original MOOG replacement parts. The pinhead goes in the spring/shock mount. For B Bodies Only Classic Mopar Forum. You can do the same if they are painted stainless. If your car was ordered with front disc brakes they are noted on your broadcast sheet. Axles were pulled when the rear end was rebuilt. By using at least two C-clamps to hold the new “spring clamps” in place you can bend and secure the clamps with crisp corners and minimal dents in the surface of the clamps. With or without the sleeve the same bushing is pressed in the arm. This is a 1970 B-Body. The rear two brake cables slide in a heavy-duty spiral reinforced case. You will know if your particular springs were natural or painted black by looking under the hangers. One tip, don't tighten up the nut on the front of the lower A frame until you adjust your height. Correct finishes include orange upper springs.

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